Auctions of pigeons, helpful tips (part 1 of 3)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.

The vast majority of public auctions are credible events that provide an excellent opportunity for buyers and sellers to meet at a central location and conduct business. Also, they provide an excellent opportunity for buyers and sellers to arrive at the fair market value of the birds.

Pigeon Auction Categories:

1. Complete Sell Out: A loft sells all of its birds, clocks, pigeon equipment, etc. / Going out of business

2. Loft Reduction: A loft reduces its number of birds, but it will still actively participate in the sport.

3. Select or Special Auction: One or more fanciers select special birds from their best pigeons to offer to other fanciers.

4. Donation Auction: Several fanciers, as many as 25 or more, donate a special bird for a charity or fund raiser.

5. Race Auction: A Race, as part of its rules, will auction its Race birds.  The owner has no choice. All birds that finish in positions 1 to 50 go to auction. Usually a 50/50 SPLIT between the OWNER and SPONSORS of the Race.

THE OLD PHRASES: “YOU PAY YOUR MONEY AND TAKE YOUR CHANCES” or “CAVEAT EMPTOR” ( THE AGE OLD WARNING OF “LET THE BUYER BEWARE”) CERTAINLY APPLY TO ANY RACING PIGEONS PURCHASED AT AUCTION. There are many honest, reputable individuals, but also there are those who have larceny in their hearts, and those individuals will seek to use the auction to dump flawed products or birds.

In this article series we’re going to show you some helpful tips for purchasing birds at auctions. These tips will help you from being taken advantage of as well as helping you to avoid some pitfalls that many fanciers fall victim to.

Pigeon Auction, Helpful Tips (part 1 of 3) by Bob Prisco

Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider

Pigeon Racing Pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Helpful tips and launched ions (part 2 of 3)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.

Helpful Tips for purchasing pigeons at auctions.

1.  Make sure the representatives of the auction company or the sponsors and management of the auction have a vested interest to  provide a positive image for the sport and have excellent reputations and high integrity.

2. Buyers should do some serious homework and check the reputation and integrity of the fancier, and the quality of his birds. Check the race records of the birds to see if they have the qualities you need to improve your loft. What type of conditions and race course does he fly? Check out the famous birds and their pedigrees.

3. Know the auctioneer and make sure he is credible with past buyers and sellers. Remember, the auctioneer works for the seller and auction company. He is in control, and when the hammer falls, the bidding is over. A verbal contract has been completed between buyer and seller.

YOU SHOULD NOT BE AFRAID TO BUY AT AUCTIONS, BUT IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBT ABOUT THE HONESTY AND INTEGRITY OF THE AUCTION COMPANY, FANCIER OR THE AUCTIONEER, THEN DO NOT MAKE ANY PURCHASES.  SIT ON YOUR HANDS, AND KEEP YOUR MONEY IN YOUR POCKET.

4. Arrive at the auction with plenty of time to look over the birds and their pedigrees.  If you did your homework, then you should know many of the fancier’s famous birds and foundation breeders. See if they appear in the pedigrees.  Many buyers go to an auction without doing their homework, then get carried away with the bidding when a particular bird comes up. As a result, they end up either paying too much for the bird or buying one that is not suitable to their breeding program.

5.  Mark off the birds you like at first observation, then go back for a good second look.  If you are not an experienced pigeon fancier, then take along someone who has some expertise and experience to read the pedigrees to help you understand a performance family of birds.  Performance should be the only criteria you use to select the birds on which to bid.  If a bird comes from a winning family that has generation after generation of excellent racers and breeders, it deserves a chance in the breeding loft.  Do not concern yourself with the “eye experts” and the so called “pigeon graders” of wings, throat, back, muscle and feather. Just make your selections on performance. Do not worry about the fanciers who walk around with the “jeweler’s loupe”. Just make sure you have your glasses to read the pedigrees accurately.

Pigeon Auction Helpful Tips (part 2 of 3) by Bob Prisco

Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider

Pigeon Racing Pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Build consistency – Identifing "grace" (part 2 of 6)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.

To identify which pigeons are the ones to surround your program around you must breed many youngsters from them and fly them out. I have never been one to coddle my young up and coming pigeons. My best stock birds and proven champions get my respect and are given the best, but they must earn it.  I don’t give any preference to youngsters off of “big name” in the sport pigeons or imports. They are flown just like the rest. They have to prove to me they are worthy of any attention.

It is best to keep notes. I keep a notebook handy so I can write down what I observe. I used to use my memory for everything but realized that writing things down keep it very realistic. You cannot be sentimental about the birds that are in the process of proving themselves if you truly want to build top quality pigeons. I am now sentimental toward some of my champions and best proven stock birds but they earned it and after all we do keep pigeons because we enjoy having them.

There are many things to look for with the building process. One of the major things not to look at is physical appearance. Beginners to the sport will begin listening to all the old secrets of champions. There are no secrets. If there was a secret it would be this, “do the work”.
I would advise against looking at wing length, structure, keels, eyes, feather etc until you understand what it is that gets the job done. A pigeon may look like someone poured the feathers on and they are truly beautiful but the bird could be a hopeless cull.
Learn what a true champion looks like then you might begin to pay a little attention to the physical characteristics. The most important aspect of a great pigeon is what he has to commend himself in the smarts and intuition department.

You can always make a pigeon with excellent character and tenacity more beautiful through selective breeding but you cannot make a beautiful pigeon smart by using just beautiful pigeons in the stock loft.

For myself personally I prefer the look of a true champion above any others and until proven I am highly suspicious of the pretty ones.

Building Consistency – Identifing “The Ones” (part 2 of 6) by Ken Easley

Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider | Pigeon Racing Pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Education: important training young birds (part 2 of 2)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
Bill Halter releasing his pigeons

When we start road training, we start about 1/2 mile away from the loft, releasing the birds at this point 2-3 times.  Remember, the routine is the same training, land, trap and peanuts.

We gradually increase the distance of our training tosses to 1, 5, 10, 20 miles.  We stay at each location 3 times.  On the third time at each location we are going to single toss each bird!  This is the most important part of the young bird’s education.  These single tosses force the bird to think on its own and not to rely on other birds to follow home.  This is the first step in teaching the bird to be independent, and to build confidence in its own ability to navigate. Release each bird separately, about 10 minutes apart, and it must rely on its own homing skills.  These single tosses are only made after a bird has been to the location at least 2 times with the group.

We agree that our birds must possess early physical maturity, and also, more importantly, mental ability to race and home successfully at a young age.  The best way to teach this is to single toss the birds.  When we train at short locations like 5, 10, 20 miles, these training tosses can be 2-3 times a day.  It is better to have 2 ten mile tosses than 1 twenty mile toss for the birds to gain experience.  Remember, feed and water is always available to the birds, and the routine is the same – train, land, trap, peanuts.  If they know that the peanuts are waiting for them, you will have no problem with trapping.

When we look for locations to release your birds, always try to find large land marks that the birds can remember and see at great distances.  After we reach the 40 mile toss location or the water, whichever comes first, all training tosses are single bird tosses.  The birds must learn to fly independently from this point.

Our training tosses are now made as close to the water as possible:  Varied NORTH and SOUTH OF OUR STRAIGHT LINE OF FLIGHT.  We look for land markers as release points that the birds can use as they come off the water.

IMPORTANT:  The birds are always sent to training tosses with a full tank of gas, fully fed and watered at all times.  Hunger is the most destructive factor for our race birds.  If a bird becomes hungry during a training toss or race, the bird develops memory loss, fatigue and loss of weight, all of which can be serious problems.  Homing now becomes secondary to the need to survive, many times causing the loss of the bird.

If the birds fly south to north east, then they will probably head toward land first (east), then fly north.  We should now single toss our birds south of the straight line of flight at tall land markers that they can recognize as they come off the water.  These single tosses must be at least 10 minutes apart.  If we release the birds too close together, they will not leave the area, but wait for the other birds and fly home together.

Single tossing creates and teaches mental maturity and intelligence.  Many times the trainer overlooks this point. Outwardly many pigeons look good (physically), but it is what is inside that counts on race day (intelligence, confidence and independent thinking to lead, not follow the other birds.)  It is important to recognize that a racing pigeon must and does navigate and think for itself independently, and not become a follower.  Single tossing helps to educate the bird, and build its confidence to fly alone.

Another important area that is many times overlooked. is that the birds will eat and drink in the shipping crates that the local club uses.  Successful trainers educate their young birds by obtaining a crate identical to the one used by the club.  This crate is the same size, color, same location of feed and water, same release location and has the same opening as the club’s crate.  They now school and educate the birds to eat and drink in these crates many times before the first race.  They prepare the birds for what to expect on shipping night.  This is a big advantage for the young birds to know where to look for food and water.  We take no chances that the birds will find it on their own.  We have prepared them in advance for this new experience.

In each situation, we have prepared our birds for new experiences in advance, all of our teaching and learning techniques help our birds to think and navigate for themselves independently from all the other birds in the race.

We must understand that we breed and train athletes.  There is no difference between training and coaching a human or an animal athlete.  They both need the athletic ability, proper training and coaching before the competition, excellent diets, good health and hygiene habits, plenty of rest, regular routine and a stress free environment to stay in condition and compete week after week to win the large prizes.

In the USA we have several types of races for both young birds and old birds.  We place a great value on birds that compete successfully in a 1 bird derby or futurity race.  Each loft enters its best bird (1 only) for this special race.  The best against the best of each loft.  The distances of the races range from 300-500 miles.  These birds are special because they have intelligence, orientation, navigating ability, motivation, determination, desire, courage and heart.  They fly as individuals or alone for distances of 300-500 miles with only their own ability.  They are leaders not followers.  The birds that fly these races successfully usually become excellent breeders and become very valuable in their owners’ breeding lofts. In each case the birds must prove themselves under difficult race conditions, after we provide them with the proper education.

Education: Important to Young Bird Training (Part 2 of 2) by Bob Prisco

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Build consistency – the Consistant (part 4 of 6)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.

So, now that we understand the basic principles of Pretzel breeding we can begin. The best proven racers you have may not be good producers. It is best of they come from a consistent family. A consistent family would be made up of birds that win on a regular basis and carry many common genes in the flock. You can rely on pigeons like these far more than any other. You can make them consistent yourself but it takes time.

Try to get as far up the ladder as you can when starting buy obtaining good stock. This way it takes you less time to reach the upper rungs.

Mate the champions together in every possible combination that you can. In other words, mate every champion hen to every champion cock that you own.

Fly the youngsters in competition if possible to really test them. They should be flown out to at least 400 miles as youngsters to really test them, 300 miles being the minimum.

Keep records of every pigeon that does well and who it is out of. Give a check mark to each individual parent that produced a winner. Don’t worry about the pairs just yet, just look at each individual parent to see how many good ones they produced with each mate.
I would look for pigeons that compete in the top 20% most of the time.

It won’t be long until you can clearly see which cocks and hens are your best producers. You may find a nick pair in the group also. This is a pair that produces several good ones when mated together but not as much mated to others.

A truly top producer will produce good ones with all mates providing they are of some quality. These are the best pigeons for our purposes and to be valued the highest.

In several years you will have a family of pigeons surrounding the best producers and you will learn what is missing from the equation. Don’t bring in lots of pigeons until you know what you need to complete the flock, at least during the building phase. It may be toughness or it may be speed.

Some pigeons come home like they were shot out of cannon. Others come home at a slower pace. Some are good for the distance and some are good for sprint racing. I personally like all around pigeons that do well from 150-450 miles.

Building Consistency – A Consistant Family (part 4 of 6) by Ken Easley

Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider | Pigeon Racing Pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Helpful tips for auctions of ions (part 3 of 3)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.

Helpful tips for pigeon auctions continued…

6. Avoid “Auction Fever”. It will cause a buyer to spend more than he or she wants. Hold you emotions in check.  Free food and alcohol affect these emotions. The food is OK, but the alcohol gets you to open up your wallet.  Keep to the rule:  once you have made your selections, arrive at a price you are willing to pay for each bird. Your job is to buy the bird at a fair price. Never over bid your limit or what you feel the bird is worth.  If you bid and are not sure of the bid, then ask the auctioneer. His job is to sell birds, not confuse you. Bid at whatever speed is comfortable for you. Remember, the auctioneer works for the seller. It is his or her job to create both excitement and a sense of urgency to motivate people to bid quickly.

7. Before you go to the auction, you must decide what you intend to buy. Are you looking for a cock, a hen or maybe two birds to mate together? Do you want to by one bird or several?  If you have pedigrees to study in advance of the auction, look for the champion birds and study their pedigrees. Look for the key birds that appear most frequently. Seek out those birds in the auction that are similarly bred to the champions. If the seller is present, introduce yourself and discus with him the birds you have selected. Ask his advice on suitable matings and on what birds he recommends you need to achieve your goals. Remember, no one knows the birds better than he does. Seek his advice. The seller should present prospective buyers with the most information possible and give the auctioneer a honest picture to enable him to generate enthusiasm among the audience.

8. Understand how the auction works, and if there are any reserve bids. RESERVE BID:  the lowest price the seller will accept to sell the bird. It is the owner’s property. If that owner has set a particular price for the bird, then that is his or her right. The bird will remain the seller’s property until that bids reach that stipulated amount. If the bid does not reach the reserve, then the bird is not sold.  Reserve bids are used for special birds, record birds and foundation breeders. If the reserve bid is $5,000 USD. AND THE HIGHEST BID IS ONLY $4,000 USD, the bird is not sold.  When you look at the auction results, you may see RNA (RESERVE NOT ATTAINED) next to the bird’s band number. The best approach is to assume that every bird in the auction carries a reserve bid, or minimum bid, that the seller will accept. There is one exception, an “absolute auction”. If the sale advertises an absolute auction, this legally binds the auctioneer to sell the bird to the highest bidder, no matter the bid amount. There are no reserves or minimum birds at an “absolute auction”.

9. Find out if the auction allows “proxy bids, advance bids or mail in bids”. This bidding allows a person to place a maximum bid on a bird in advance, and he does not have to attend the auction. He indicates the highest amount he will pay for the bird, and someone in attendance bids for him.  Many times it is the auctioneer. This type of bidding may cause cheating and unethical practices by the auctioneer and sales company. You can best describe these actions as FRAUD. 

For example, a fancier sends in a mail bid for $5,000 USD. for bird #1, which is a record bird and champion breeder. This means he authorizes the sales company to bid as high as $5,000 USD. to buy the bird for him because he will not attend the auction. The auctioneer starts the bidding at $1,000 USD. because he bids for the mail in bid. Someone in the audience bids $1,500 USD. The auctioneer bids $1,700 USD., and no one else in audience bids. The bird should be sold for $1,700 USD to the mail in bid. However, if the sales company and auctioneer are dishonest, then they will have someone in the audience continue to make fake bids (this person is called a shill) to drive up the price as close to $5,000 USD as possible. This makes the mail in bidder pay over $3,000 more for the bird than was necessary. Why would they do this? They are paid on commission, the more the bird sells for the more they make. Also, with mail in bids, you can make the buyers in attendance pay more than necessary. Same bird #1. Several individuals in the audience also want the bird, and the bid goes past $5,000 USD. The auctioneer should stop his bidding, because he can only go to the $5,000 USD authorized by the mail in bidder.

However, he continues to bid past the $5,000 and makes fake bids to drive up the price the buyers in the audience must pay for the bird. Many times the final buyer will overpay a very large amount for the bird because the auctioneer saw the chance to take advantage of the buyers in the audience, their enthusiasm and their desire to purchase the bird. For this reason, I do not like the use of advance bidding or mail in bids. However, they are a very common practice in today’s pigeon auctions. A buyer must decide if the auction allows mail in bids, if he wants to participate in the auction and who will make the bids for these absentee buyers.

10. Buyers should pay close attention to the number of the birds that the auction advertised in advance, and how many of the original birds are there on auction day. It is a very common practice by sellers and auction companies to advertise several birds that they have no intention to sell to bring in a large number of buyers. The buyers arrive to find out that these birds have been withdrawn and substitute birds put in their places. This is commonly called the “bait and switch”. You come to the auction to buy one bird and the seller tries to sell you another. Another reason many of the original birds are not present is that they may not be healthy. There have been a number of cases where unexpected illness occurred after the auction advertised the birds. If this is the case, do not buy any of the birds. You do not want any chance that this sickness will reach your loft and cause future problems. Also, it is a common practice for sellers to sell birds before the auction to private buyers. The seller takes advantage of the sales company’s time, money and advertising to promote the sale. It would be cost prohibitive for the seller to try to duplicate the promotional efforts of the catalogues and advertising himself, so he takes advantage of their efforts to offer some of his birds at private deals. 

THIS IS NOT VERY ETHICAL OF THE SELLER!

REMEMBER “IT IS NEVER A GOOD BUY IF YOU DID NOT NEED THE BIRD OR IT CANNOT HELP YOU BETTER YOUR RACE RECORD, REGARDLESS OF HOW CHEAPLY YOU PURCHASED IT. “CAVEAT EMPTOR (LET THE BUYER BEWARE)”.

Pigeon Auction Helpful Tips (part 3 of 3) by Bob Prisco

Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider

Pigeon Racing Pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Building Consistency (part 6 of 6) – Conclusion

It is recommended that you keep the lines of 4 value within the family; Even five or six lines are good if you have a place but four delicate jobs. You can separate these lines and maintain them through Tess are raised. You can use these lines to cross each other when needed.You can save a quite good with four legs for 15-20 years without complication can turn up too. Then you need to add some blood up genes to do again. When looking for new blood, remember that it took a long time to get to where you are so bringing blood inferior cannot be reasonable.Find someone who has built Loft birds consistent matching the philosophy about what constitutes a great racer. They may not click on the first mating. Sometimes they click to the right from the beginning, and it sometimes can be grandchildren who kick it equipment.Also, remember that at the beginning is like machoona network for fish. You may not receive the anything worth keeping tosses a few first. Try many times and keep only the best. After you have established the family the main attention is to be in your family, not chasing rainbows by continuing to buy different families ions. Never get satisfaction of building a family of inconsistent unless you stay the course.Every time you bring new birds bring a whole host of new genetic material to weed through. More weeding process has time less serious ???? your line. There is nothing wrong with much experience of start to find out what packages, but then move forward with your line. If you continue to purchase pigeons and run the game in a new buying addiction to fly a blood peoples. This is fine for some people but not for the actual stock.Many will say, "Tales of the brothers to champ is the best production. This is the last sign is not established. Established perennial family will produce the best. This is the testimony of family built from top proven lalopi. Once you learn what looks like a champ to begin to identify some of the features. You can see confidence in a bird. Nothing beats a real fighter, proven air.Enjoy your quest that is your pleasure in mind, have fun.Building consistency (part 6/6) – a conclusion by Ken EasleyPigeon racing from pigeon | Pigeon racing pigeonsView Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Building consistency in your birds (part 1 of 6)

The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.
The underlying connection was closed: A connection that was expected to be kept alive was closed by the server.

I have written many articles over the years about my experiences with pigeons. I spent most of my life building a top notch strain of rollers. I painstakingly built a family of pigeons that consistently scored higher quality multipliers by the judges in World and National competitions. One of the most important aspects of putting together a family of pigeons that will perform to the strictest standards is starting with good stock. You can’t expect to build a great family of birds using inferior stock.

You would spend years trying to compensate for flaws in the gene pool by mating birds in a manner to compensate for weakness. You are fooling yourself to believe that this would come quickly. It is only wishful thinking at best.

So, to start we must find top quality stock. It is worth the price if the birds are truly top quality. The quality may be found through paying a lot or it just as easily may be found from a gift of a friend in the sport. Some of the best pigeons I have ever owned came from a gift and were the basis for my strain.

It is rare you will find someone that truly knows his line of pigeons and is willing to give up a great prospect to a stranger, even for a price unless he has plenty to spare. You will more likely get his second best. The only time it goes the other way is if the breeder has plenty of great birds and can spare one. I have seen some that got through because the owner didn’t really know what he had also.

Most guys that get started in racers will begin with substandard pigeons and spend several years learning the difference. All is not lost since much can be learned from such experiences.
You will be extremely lucky to find two truly top pigeons but this is the basis for a foundation. The best pigeons will be bred by you in your own loft providing you stick to the plan, pay attention to details and have the tenacity of a wood pecker. I was once asked which animal was my favorite in the animal kingdom. I answered it would have to be the wood pecker. When asked why I would choose a woodpecker from such a wide variety of animals I said because a wood pecker can peck a hole in a tree with his nose.

This takes great determination and steady pecking. I now use this in my business to motivate and focus, steady pecking will win the day.

Building Consistency In Your Birds (part 1 of 6) by Ken Easley

Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider | Pigeon Racing Pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Pigeon Diets

Image via Wikipedia

First of all: why we need to eat? Essentially maintain our health, along with the power and energy. If we don't eat we become weak. If we eat we become large over, lazy. Therefore this pigeon what should eat too much. How we feed, we feed depend to a large extent why we maintain a pigeon. Similar to how nutrition athletes may be different than a low normal people. Ions that are preserved for performance will need to be entered in a different way. ? standard ions is 1-1 1/z oz per feed. It is recommended to feed 2/3 evenings and 1/3 in the morning. For people flying pigeon thier quantities and times vary. However for all pigeon fanciers pigeons eat most of the standard of grains, legumes, cereals and more. They even may take some fresh vegetables. However you must provide the primary material to all 4 is a pigeon. Entry 1: popular grains are wheat, barley, corn, peas, Dari, linseed, safflower, etc. There is a balanced nutrition. 2 grit 3 minerals & vitamins 4 water of certain grains will on others. Certain periods of the year they will need a specific type and quantity of the food are raised, racing, molting, displaying, etc. What entered the pigeon depends on a lot of why pigeons are retained. You will see the town centers  nearly pigeons that eat something. Even in chips. What is important is to provide a balanced diet, with the desired minerals and plenty of clean water. As a rule always feed the pigeons from the container, never on the floor or wax like seeds may absorb germs capable. Its important to feed is clean, in good order. Its said that we become what we eat, and healthy is good is important. To understand the techniques we have feeding performance then understanding of carbohydrates, proteins, fats. Please see my next post.

(Part 5 of 6) Building Consistency – The “ ” Race Smash

When a race with the Club on a regular basis will be the race smash sooner or later. This is a race where many ions are lost. It must be due to bad weather, go down hauler, allow strange location behind the mountains or just the odd circumstances, perhaps even attacks a Falcon. This is really learn something about the doves you are working with. You may lose some of them faster. I lost the birds who built themselves a good reputation as a young birds only to lose the race smash.
Some of the "perceived to be" lesser birds that hang in the top 20% in the first place may show themselves to be the sharpest ions and difficult group.
In 2008 I was sent a challenge ACE pigeon of the world, classic Las Vegas, flew them locally. I'm captive bred animals three brothers from one pair that flew in all three. One flew up into the local; One flew the WAC and Vegas. One in WAC placed 12th of 300 kilometres. He also laid the 60th in 400 I believe. He never won the top honor, but always had one plus only 160 pigeons had left at the end of the competition. I had them sent him home. Other brother flew Vegas, the results were similar. His last flew up into local and to my surprise the same results. Sent to the brothers follow all three, the results were similar. It was a good lesson, well worth the price of admission.
It takes a good ions to win, plain and simple. I flew up into the youngest brother of old birds locally. He was the first behind his trap, a hen, and loft of Honourable Baahrim also.
The next race was 500. Hauler broke at miles 400 and released the birds on the side of a highway. They were behind the leg 16,000 named elevation mountain in Colorado. Many members of the Club were a caller wants to know if I received all the pigeons as race smash. I was worried because I'm not flown in 300 due to schedule work my pigeons was that much since the young birds, in fact, I had no time to train them in the road at all. Outside the pigeon 8 I received back four. First home at a respectable third brother was.
After talking to the guys at our everyone were heavy losses with some guys getting there without repetition. This is something to consider leaving the row of pigeons, toughness, good handle on intuition.
He was a champion in individual pen breeding Loft for several months. I sent her. She was the first race of the season, 400. She came in second. One winner diploma fast vtrngolt ACE national never made it back. Therefore, a good speed, but that's not all.
After all the most important materials that are built into the family is a matter of keeping improving it.
(Part 5 of 6) building consistency – race "smash" by Ken Easley
Pigeon racing from pigeon | Pigeon racing pigeons

View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com

Build consistency – pretzel cultivated (part 3 of 6)

Once we have a few proven champions we keep the parents and discard all of the other breeders that did not make the cut. Culling the stock loft is more important than culling the flyers. The flyers will cull themselves but you and you alone are responsible for what goes in the stock loft.
When you have several proven champions from the air you will want to try them at breeding. There are countless methods of breeding but none have ever out matched the pretzel breeding method. I ran across it by accident really. When I was a boy my father and grandfather advised against breeding too close. There was a lot of apprehension associated with breeding close relatives. Since then I have bred them very close and tried every kind of mating you can imagine and using the very best of stock. Having tried inbreeding, line breeding and just plain old out crossing I can tell you, the best method has proven itself over and over again to be the pretzel breeding method.
The Pretzel breeding method is simply trying to keep your best three or four pigeons blood at the forefront of your breeding program in heavy concentration without breeding brother/sister or mother/son or father daughter mating. It is geared toward mating uncle / niece or aunt / nephew or cousins. Double cousins is a favorite of mine. It is not good enough to just mate double cousins and expect excellent results. They must be all proven pigeons and this takes time. They have to be flown out to prove themselves worthy of a shot in the breeding loft. Then they must prove themselves as stock birds. They must reproduce as good as themselves or better and in good percentages.
Building Consistency – Pretzel Breeding (part 3 of 6) by Ken Easley
Pigeon Racing Pigeon Insider | Pigeon Racing Pigeons
View Related Articles Here: http://michael-pigeonracing.blogspot.com